Happy Danes by Derek Wyatt
Denmark has been the go-to destination over the past 18 months.
This love-in with all things Danish started, unusually, because of three quite stunning dramas across our television screens. First up was The Killing starring Sofie Grabol as Detective Inspector Sarah Lund. This was followed by the brilliant Borgen starring Sidse Babett Knusden as the Danish PM which is now in its third series and finally by The Bridge where a cut up torso representing two people is found on a bridge exactly at the point where Denmark meets Sweden.
Our knowledge of this small Nordic country had previously been restricted to that chair where a naked Christine Keeler was photographed astride it during the Profumo Affair (which may be reprised in Andrew Lloyd-Webber's new musical Stephen Ward which opens in early December); to butter, bacon and big pastries; to design especially Lego and B&O and finally to its sensational architects including Jorn Utzon (Sydney Opera House & Bagsvaerd Church) and Arne Jacobsen (that chair & St Catherine's College, Oxford, Aarhus City Hall and a petrol station in the suburbs of Copenhagen).
Today, like all European countries, it is wondering how to afford its exceptional social and health care system and housing programme. It also like all of us has an immigration problem where 3% of its population is now Muslim. Interestingly, you need to have lived in the country for 26 years before you will be granted citizenship.
Its VAT rate is 25% which makes the State the biggest spender. In addition its equality programme means that a doctor can only earn twice as much as a dustman. Nevertheless, the Danes are ranked the happiest people in the world!
Last month, I spent a long weekend in Copenhagen. I was tempted there by its food revolution and its architecture. I was not disappointed. In fairness, you actually need a week to see everything in this delightful city! Go book.
If you like food and eating out try:
Noma *****
www.noma.dk
The winner of the World Restaurant of the Year award in 2010, 2011 and 2012 to many peoples surprise except the Danes - Michelin only gives it two stars. Opened nearly ten years ago its co- founders - Rene Redzepi and Claus Meyer – who have reinvented how to catch, harvest and cook local foods and they have heavily influenced the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. You will need a mortgage to eat here and the patience of Job whilst you wait for a reservation which only become available on the first of each month in a complex lottery scheme.........but book your visit to Copenhagen around a table here.
Cap Horn **
www.caphorn.dk
There are two dozen restaurants in the in the Nyhavn district so you are spoilt for choice; Cap Horn stands out for its warm service, local foods and wine list.
Almanak ***
www.thestandardcph.dk
Barely a month old and with two chefs from Noma, it is set in the charming pre war custom house with hints of an Edward Hopper painting/set. It is already wowing the Danish foodies with its eclectic mix of wild fruits and meats; the Almanak is part of The Standard group which includes Studio and Verandah restaurants elsewhere in the building and a burgeoning Jazz club where you can book a combined eating and listening experience. A joy.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art *
www.lousianamoma.dk
Aside from the Art, Architecture and Sculpture which will not disappoint, there is a busy cafe charmingly designed with Danish style and great food.
Albert K at The Royal ***
www.radissonblu.com
Eat in the presence of a grand master as the interior has been designed by the great Arne Jacobsen.
Restaurant L'Angleterre ****
www.dangleterre.dk
Inside one of the top hotels in the country; the service can be stiff but the menu is outstanding with a selection of local starter dishes where you are encouraged to sample two or three and then choose from a very small number of main dishes. Classy wine list too.
If you fancy a Danish open sandwich lunch try:
Schonnemann ***
www.danishlunch.dk
Always over-booked so there's no point just turning up in hope; pre-book weeks in advance. This is the top restaurant for the Danish open sandwich taster. A real delight despite the rather dreary environment in which it is located.
Pilekaelderen **
www.pilekaelderen.dk
Booking recommended; this is smaller than its rival above but just as delightful though staff can be stretched so enjoy the snaps and starters.
Helpful books for your visit:
How to be Danish by Patrick Kingsley
Lonely Planet guide to Copenhagen
Wallpaper guide to Copenhagen
Go to the Daunt bookshop in Marylebone High Street for a great collection of travel books especially on Denmark.
Derek stayed at 71 Nyhavn Hotel
www.nyhavnhotel.dk and flew by EasyJet
www.easyjet.com from Stansted. The hotel was handily based in the centre, the service was outstanding and it had free wireless.